shopper\'s world; vibrant printed cottons in alsace

By S.
Irene virbilamarch 1989 this is a digital version of an article from The Times Print Archive, before its online publication began in 1996.
To keep these articles as they appear initially, the Times will not change, edit, or update them.
There are occasional copywriting errors or other problems during the digitization process.
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When I recently enjoyed a piece of printed cotton tablecloth in a wine tasting room of a wine manufacturer in Alsace, emerald green and brown with wide borders lavender and blue, the winemaker said the traditional pattern was based on the 18 th
Century Alsace wedding scarf
The tablecloth, he said, was printed at steinner in liboville, a wine village, along the historic Duvin route, starting south of Strasburg.
To visit 150year-
The old textile company, now known as a manufacturing company, passed through half of the Middle Ages through the town center and across the street
The wooden house squatted on the 13 th
Tower of century Butcher
On the left, a few hundred feet out of town, in the direction of Ste. -Marie-aux-
You will see the entrance to the textile printing company.
It is a factory store, and the price of beautifully printed and designed tablecloths is much lower than that of French retail.
Founded in 1838 by Charles Steiner, the company studied chemistry and dyeing in the UK, specializing in red dye Rouge or Turkish red.
Alsace, it is called Rouge de Ribeauville, and later Rouge Steiner. In 1842 Mr.
Steiner added a hand-carved printing studio to the dye work and printed decorative fabrics named after Trois Rouges or tri-red.
When Andre Bolin and his son let-
Michelle acquired the bankrupt company in 1979, and they inherited 100,000 manual files.
Carved wooden blocks for printing textiles.
At first, Borins focused on customizing printers for famous textile and design issues like Hermes and Pierre Deux.
They also specialize in copying antique printed fabrics for historical buildings, museums and castles.
The company has printed fabrics for the Elysee Palace, Buckingham Palace, Fontainebleau and the Chateau cannon Shaw, as well as the Victor Hugo house and art deco Museum in Paris, and the Grand Trianon museum in the Palace of Versailles.
In the 1983 AD, Borins decided to start their own collection of printed cotton cloth tablecloths, which is said to be now the leading manufacturer of tablecloths in France.
Their beautiful tablecloths are sold at stores such as Lafayette and Diners en Ville in Paris.
In this country, they may buy it in Neiman.
Marcus, Pierre Deyo, Bergdorf Goodman, Marshall Fields and block Wilshire under label M. I. E. -
Make the impression of etofi.
The original inventory of the 15 designs has grown to over 100, some based on historical textiles, and some on the work of their own design team.
The design of some tablecloths is based on the 17 th. and 18th-
Jean-\"wood carving design of the century\"
Michelle Bolin said, \"we can print it in silk and copy it faithfully at a reasonable price --
Screen, this is a technology introduced in the 20 th century.
Occasionally they will
Printed fabrics designed for historic interiors, but for most people, the price of this work is very expensive.
Jean-\"two skilled workers hand-printed a design that uses 90 pieces of wood and 18 colors and can hardly produce a printed cloth of 1 m in an hour
Said Michelle Bolin.
\"In our file, we have a Japanese pattern print that won the fabric print award at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1900.
It uses 1,258 pieces of wood and 36 colors.
The average print in our file takes 40 to 50 pieces to print the pattern.
That\'s why the company has gradually stopped printing by hand and turned to support manual and machine silk --Screen printing.
They do have a main woodcut printer that is still working, but he mainly makes fabrics for exhibitions or presentations.
Many of their tablecloth designs are replicas of antique Alsace wedding scarves collected from the etofen Museum (
Museum of fabric printing)in Mulhouse.
According to Jean
Michel Borin, his company has the exclusive right to replicate the design of wedding scarves for the 14 th and 15 th centuries.
Their designers also found prints that can be copied in thousands of old fabric \"files\" in the museum\'s collection.
Copying any historical printed fabric requires extensive research in the company\'s computer color kitchen to perfectly match the original color.
Some designs may have 20 or more colors, each of which must be silk
Screen separately by hand or machine. (
60 tables in handmade silk-
3 flat-panel printers. )
The design is printed on a blend of cotton satin, cretonne, linen and cotton.
The color is almost 230 degrees. it can be steamed or boiled.
I bought my favorite cotton tablecloth in the wine tasting room.
It has six color combinations, including bright dark green on light green and plum on purple. The 67-by-67-
$19 inch cloth; a 67-
$31 inch round, 59-by-67-
Inch rectangle $31.
The matching napkin is $2. 75.
Another wedding scarf designed by the muhaus Museum has a delicate little leaf on the background, and the borders of roses and wild flowers are printed as before --
As a delicate and soft cotton scarf.
There are 17 colors for each scarf.
At 39 by 39 inch it is almost large enough to be worn as a summer shawl ($28; seconds $24. )
The best company-
The tablecloth was sold as a copy of a document retrieved from the muhaus Museum, a carefully designed Paisley pattern.
Oberlin tablecloth 67 yuan 56 yuan-by-67-inch square;
The second is $49. The 69-by-88 1/2-
The inch rectangle is $69.
Big napkins for $5. 65 each.
Patterns of blue rose knots and red diamonds are printed on the heavy white cotton floor, outlined in black, with luxurious wide borders, soft green, coral, blue masks and vase patterns
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The company has two researchers.
Jean-it\'s time to find out the old documents or textile designs.
Michelle Bolin said the company did everything possible to reproduce the design faithfully.
For example, in the 20th-century Art Deco period, decorative fabrics were made of cotton that was heavier than today.
The staff of four textile designers designed contemporary tablecloth prints. And M. I. E.
Presents the tablecloth collected by French designer Martine nousat under his own label.
Her colorful explanation of the old Paisley and ICAT patterns, Persian carpets and Anatolia textiles is one of the company\'s most popular designs and published in the European Design Journal.
Because of the quality of fabric and printing, advertising, M. I.
E tablecloths are expensive, but the price of the company\'s discount store is about half the price you pay in the retail store, in the store in this country, the price is the third to one quarter. (
For example, in New York in December, Ribeauville\'s napkins cost $8 and $38.
The $48 to $121 tablecloth I saw spent $195 to $350 here. )
Customers in the store can get more savings by buying seconds, which is not more defective than when you first use the tablecloth.
For example, a thick cotton satin tablecloth of 67 by 108 inch, with gorgeous paisley patterns in red, green and och colors, costs $121.
The second is $104.
The price of the tablecloth ranges from $16 to $160 as it may fit into the small table in the kitchen.
Size cloth 67 by 138 inch;
The matching napkin is $2. 75 to $8.
While dozens of designs are stacked on shelves on tables and walls, the company\'s hundreds or so of designs are not available any day.
Inventory is based on overspending and available inventory.
Fabrics can sometimes be obtained by meters, overspending, or the few seconds the company has done for some of its custom work
Printing customers (
$15 to $31, $1 m to $13.
$70 to $28 per yard).
I decided to sprinkle a small piece of cassis berries on the cream background for $1 m.
Then I looked around and found the rest of the same fabric for $2 m.
From the 18 th to the beginning of the 19 th century, the beautifully carved wooden blocks used for printing fabrics cost about $100 per piece.
Wood blocks are carved with pears or boxwood, sometimes inlaid in gorgeous patterns with lead or brass. Ninety-
The minute visit to the printing factory is available almost every day in the summer and less for the rest of the year.
Visitors can see the preparation of cloth, the mixing of colors, manual and machine printing, and the blocking and steaming of finished printed fabrics.
Occasionally, you may see master Robert drenbach of woodcut printers in the work of the committee.
If a visit to etofen in manufacturing has aroused your interest in printed textiles, you may also want to visit the etofen Museum in muhaus, 36 miles south of riboville.
The museum is the favorite place for fashion designers, who have been browsing thousands of sample books and design sketches since the 18 th century.
The entire garment manufacturing company is in Libreville (
Haut Rhine of Alsace; telephone 89. 73. 74. 74).
Outlets stores are open from 8 to 11: 45 a. m. Monday to Friday. M.
5: 45 to 6M.
Saturday morning June-September
Accept Visa card.
Tours are free but must be called in advance (
Monique pijiafo, extended 306 cm)
Arrange a tour in French, English or German.
Impression museum on the river of etofen (
3 Bonnice StreetGens, Mulhouse; 89. 45. 51. 20)is open 10 A. M.
By noon and 2 to 6. M. (closed Tuesday)
From September to 5; open 9 A. M. to 6 P. M.
Every day for the rest of the year.
In the summer, the museum held a presentation of fabric printing on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at three o\'clock P. M. M. S. I. V. S.
Irene Bila is a writer living in Oakland, California.
A version of this article was printed on page 5005012 of the National edition on March 12, 1989 with the title: The World of shoppers;
Vibrant printed cotton from Alsace.

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